It is impossible to imagine a Hungarian summer without these
large, pot-bellied jars, which are placed in the sun to let the pickled
gherkins mature. Whether stored under the eaves of the farmhouses, in a corner
of a terrace, or on the kitchen window ledge of a city apartment, these
gherkins, which are preserved by the process of lactic acid fermentation
(kovászos uborka), are simply everywhere.
Some 4 1/2 pounds (two kilograms) of cucumbers are needed for a 6 1/2 pint
(3-liter) jar. The right gherkins (or cucumbers) are four to five inches
(10-12 centimetres) in length, two fingers thick, and crispy fresh. They are
sold on markets and in numerous delis with one other vital ingredient: half
dried dill (several stalks are required, with flowers if possible). And that's
the end of the shopping list, since the remaining ingredients are usually to
hand in every household: a thick slice of bread (dark is better), two cloves
of garlic, and salt.
First, place the cucumbers in a large bowl with lukewarm water to remove any
sand on the skins. Clean thoroughly under running water, using a brush if
necessary. Discard the two ends and slash the skins. It is worth testing every
single cucumber, since a single bitter one can ruin the whole jar.
Add a heaped tablespoon of salt to a good two pints (one litre) of water, and
bring to a boil. Leave to cool for about five minutes. Meanwhile, place half
the dill and a peeled, sliced clove of garlic in the bottom of the jar, then
layer the cucumbers on top. When the jar is half full, add a second layer of
herbs and garlic; the bread is placed on top. Then pour the salt water over
the cucumbers to cover them, and moisten the bread. Put a lid, a small plate,
or a piece of cheese- cloth over the jar, and place in the sun. The cucumbers
will have ceased fermenting after three or four days. The water turns cloudy
during the fermentation, becoming opaque and milky.
People who prefer their pickled gherkins with a little more spice add half an
onion, a piece of peeled horseradish, some sour cherry leaves, and marjoram
and/or basil, as well as the dill and garlic.
It is worthwhile testing the gherkins before ending the fermentation process.
Pickled gherkins should always be pleasantly sour and not too soft, giving a
little resistance when bitten into.
Now discard the bread, remove the gherkins, and rinse them. Pack them into
smaller, well-sealing jars and cover with the fermentation water, passing it
through a very fine sieve. Stored in the refrigerator in airtight jars, they
will keep for up to three weeks.
Pickled gherkins are served ice cold, and without the liquid. In Hungary, on
hot summer days, they are often served on crushed ice. Chilled gherkin liquid,
diluted with soda water if preferred, is welcome at this time of year as a
healthy and refreshing drink.
Hungarian consumers prize these organically grown "warty" cucumbers.
2004-12-17
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